Training - Helpful Links
There’s a lot of information on the web about training using hang boards and other devices apart from actual climbing and how to integrate it with your training in the gym or on the rock. Here are some of the better resources that I’ve found. You’ll notice that everyone has their own take on the best way to integrate this type of training and the benefits and drawbacks. Most will agree though, that if you can not train on rock or in the gym, using a climbing specific training device is better than general fitness training alone, and that real gains can still be made while away from climbing opportunities. However, these gains in and of themselves may not improve your climbing (and may even set you up for learning bad patterns by relying on your new found strength instead of a balanced whole body approach) unless they are integrated into the whole of climbing movement. The best source I’ve found on the principles and physiology of climbing movement, training and training programs can be found in Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter’s book, The Self-Coached Climber. Their blog is also a source of good info.
Applying Hangboard Training to Rock Climbing - best short summary of different types of routines using “repeaters for different goals. If you’re getting started and want to design your own training program, read this. (Will Anglin, Ben Spannuth)
Finger strength recruitment program - step-by-step 12-week program (Chris Webb Parsons)
Rationale for training a variety of hand/grip positions - (Douglas Hunter)
Timing of rests between reps - the difference between short and long rests (Dave MacLeod)
Measuring gains - the importance tracking gains of but the challenge of assessing it accurately (Dave MacLeod)
General training suggestions - written for hang-boarding but apply to training with grips
Crimps and training angle - training angle variance of greater than 15 degrees does not benefit other grip positions (Neil Gresham)
Importance of rest and recovery - from training and climbing (Neil Gresham)
Additional ideas that can be adapted for grip training - good system for being able to adjust body weight during training (scroll down to the end of page for RGold’s views)
Lock-off strength - a general discussion of the relevance for trad and sport climbing and training suggestions that can be adapted to grips (RGold’s views, 6th post from top)
General info on grip training - routines that can be adapted for grips (British Mountaineering Council)
Cautions on using training fingers and joints - specific cautions regarding campus boarding which also apply to finger training in general. Also a discussion in relation to youth and training (British Mountaineering Council)
Ideas for training using pull-ups - Not everyone feels that pullups are a beneficial and efficient form of training, however this guide does (Stevie Haston)
Finger training duration and supplementary training - (Stevie Haston)
Training crimp strength - discussion and cautions (Stevie Haston)
Grip pyramid training - simulates the way your forearm muscles work in climbing a long boulder problem or sport route (Eric Horst)
Pull ups are a waste of time - not everyone will agree with his thesis. He suggests doing modified “horizontal pull-ups” which he claims offers more efficient training for climbers for steep rock.  (Steve Betchel)  [Horizontal pull-ups could be done utilizing different grip positions - see also toe-pointing which could also work the core for steep climbing.] 
Advanced finger training discussion - specifically in relation to bouldering (Kris Hampton & Ryan Palo)
Recruitment finger training - a balanced gripping repertoire is the key factor for any top climber (Articles->Training->Recruitment finger training, Jens Larsen)
Hangboarding - training routines for beginner through advanced. (Articles->Training->Hangboarding, Frank Ocasio)
Training - longer document (14 pages) that integrates hangboard training into the larger training picture. Based on Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard
Pull-ups - More pull-up variations than most climbers would ever care to know. Many can be done on a set of grips (Stevie Haston)
Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation
For injury prevention, as well as rehabilitation from an overuse injury, it’s important to develop the antagonist muscles used in climbing and especially focused on while using grips:
Therapy in a can - muscle stretching and massage with a common can (Michael Cross)
Hand manual - taking care of your hands (Articles->Training-> Hand Manual by Dr. 8a, Björn Alber)
Shoulder preventive exercises - shoulder stability and mobility training. Important for preventing injuries and exercises every climber should do
Shoulder injuries - pre-diagnosis
Rotator cuff exercises - strengthen the muscles that support the rotator cuff (video)
Dodgy Elbows - Golfers (medial epicondylitis - pain on inside of elbow) and tennis elbow (lateral epicondylitis - pain on outside of elbow) - rehab and prevention program (Dr. Julian Sanders)
Climbing shoulder injuries - exercises and tips 
Shoulder injury and recovery - one guy’s story
Way of the iron fist - rice bucket hand, finger, and forearm workout
Rubber band finger extensor workout - (also this short video) simple exercises with a rubber band for finger and hand but also benefits the forearm muscles
Targeted opposition - prevention of tendonitis in elbows and shoulders
Working antagonist muscles - injury prevention by working antagonist muscles (Eric Horst)
Muscle Imbalance - climbing focuses on a limited set of muscles and climbing training even more so. While this article is not specific to climbing it is a good discussion re muscle imbalance and ways to fix.
Miscellaneous
How to make a rope rug - we’ve had requests for instructions on how to make a rope rug using retired climbing ropes...here they are!
Getting Better Without Training - (Douglas Hunter)
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