Crimp Grip

In this grip position, the 3D-Slings are adjusted so the crimp grips vary between a horizontal and vertical orientation. A small degree of rotation of the grip can make a large difference in the difficulty because the crimp grip is an ellipse. The contact area varies with the position of the ellipse in relation to the fingers. A more vertical positioning of the ellipse exposes less surface area and creates a smaller, more difficult grip. In a more horizontal position, the ellipse provides an easier grip position with more surface contact. Adjusting your finger position on the grips can further fine tune the degree of difficulty.


Finger crimp positions

There are three major finger positions that can be used in training. Once the angle of the fingers change position more than 15 degrees there is little carry-over benefit and therefore all crimp positions should be trained:

Open-crimp - Finger joints are the most open in this position so there is the least possibility of tendon injury. 

Half-crimp - Fingers are bent approximately at 90 degrees at the second joint.

Closed-crimp - Fingers are bent at an acute angle at the second joint. The thumb may or may not be wrapped around the fingers locking them down. In this position the pulley tendons receive the most stress. When this position is used in climbing, it’s usually with the support of the feet, therefore full body weight is not placed on them. If you choose to train using this position, make sure you’re adequately warmed up. It’s safest to limit crimp training to the open hand and half-crimp positions. 

  1. The number of fingers used on the crimp can be decreased as you become stronger.


Grip Positions

    - edge

    - jug

    - crimp

    - sloper

    - pinch

   - mantle

    - undercling