Edge Grip

The edge is the most straight forward grip position to set - since it uses the upright position. By slightly varying the tilt of the “G”, you can achieve a flat, incut, or sloping edge. By moving the Prusik loop closer to the small crimp it become more incut. Conversely, by moving the Prusik away toward the bottom of the “G”, it becomes more sloping.


  1.   Edge grip modifications

Each of the above edge positions can be easily modified by how your place your hand on the grip. This way you can achieve most of the edge and pocket holds on a hang board or portable training device. During a particular workout or phase of your training, you’ll probably want to pick and choose which will best serve your goals (i.e. targeting a weakness). Additional modifications to each of the major edge positions shown above are:

The degree of finger contact with the grip can be varied between 1st, 2nd, or 3rd joint (full hand).


The number of fingers can also be varied between 2, 3 or 4 (full hand). Be careful when reducing the number of fingers because it will increase the strain on the joints and tendons.


  1. Hanging a single Gstring in the edge grip position so only the top two cords hold all the climber’s weight can lead to metal fatigue and possible failure of the hold. The climber’s weight should be distributed evenly among all four cords. (The vertical pinch grip is the exception to this. It is designed to support the full climber’s weight on just two cords.)


Grip Positions

    - edge

    - jug

    - crimp

    - sloper

    - pinch

   - mantle

    - undercling